ASIAN FLAT-LEAF CHIVES (also Garlic Chives, Chinese Chives, jiu tsai, gau tsoi, nira, he, kui chaai, kucai, kutsay)
At the market, Asian chives resemble a bundle of long, thick leaves of grass. Unlike their western cousin, they are solid, not hollow, and have a light garlic taste. Chopped into one- or two-inch lengths, they are often found in stir-fries, fried rice, and fried noodle dishes. They can also used to garnish practically any dish, eastern or western. Asian chives pair particularly well with eggs, as in the following recipe. The white flowers with their stalks (gau choi fa) are a Chinese delicacy, usually stir fried with peanut oil, oyster sauce, cornstarch, and sugar.
Recipe Suggestion:
Scrambled Eggs with Asian Chives
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1/4 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/3 cup Asian chives, cut into 1 inch lengths
4 large eggs
1. Heat the oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium high heat. Sprinkle the salt on the hot oil.
2. Add the chives and stir-fry them for about 5 seconds.
3. Whisk the eggs briefly in a small bowl and add to the skillet. Stir gently only 3 or 4 times during 10 seconds. The eggs will be soft and moist.
4. Turn egg mixture out onto warmed plates and serve with plain rice or toast. (Yield: 2 servings.)
Selection Tips
If kept damp and cool, Asian chives have a fairly long shelf life. But to get the most flavor you should seek out the freshest chives, which will be shiny green and smooth. The lower ends of the stems should not be dried out and the upper ends should not be wilted.
Nutritional Highlights
As a member of allium family, which includes onions, garlics, and leeks, Asian chives have a generous amount of potassium and bone-building phosphorus. They also have good amounts of calcium and vitamin A.
THAI BASIL (also Anise Basil, Asian Basil, Horapa, Krapow or kaprao, Rau que, selaseh, tulsi)
There are a number of varieties of Thai basil. In general, you can recognize it by its spicy, anisey aroma. In addition to the scent, you can recognize Thai basil by its small leaves, which often have a reddish-purple tinge when young, and by the dark purple stems and flowers. Thai basils are most often used in Thai, Malaysian, Indonesian, and Vietnamese cooking, but the fresh-chopped leaves may be sprinkled into any salad or stir-fry to add an interesting, spicy high note. In any cooked dish, traditional or not, the fresh chopped basil is added just before serving, as cooking the leaf dulls its bright flavors.
Recipe Suggestion:
Thai Basil Chicken
1 lb skinned, boned chicken breasts
2 Tablespoons peanut oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 green onions, chopped
4 tiny green or red Asian chili peppers, stemmed and finely chopped
3/4 cup finely chopped fresh Thai basil leaves
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
1. Cut chicken breasts into tiny slivers. (It helps if you put them in the freezer until firm but not frozen solid.)
2. Heat up wok, add oil, and stir fry garlic and green onions until tender, about 1-2 minutes.
3. Add chili peppers and cook, stirring, about 1 minute more.
4. Add chicken and stir-fry until cooked through, another 3-4 minutes.
5. Turn heat off and stir in basil and fish sauce, mixing thoroughly. Serve over rice.
Selection Tips
The best clue to really fresh Thai basil is the aroma. You should be able to follow your nose to it in any market. The leaves should be unbruised and unblemished. Any black areas mean that either the basil is old or it was handled roughly. In either case, you don't want it.
Nutritional Highlights
Basil is one of those herbs that you intuitively know is good for you, but is not listed in most nutrition fact files. Herbalists often recommended as an appetite stimulant and a digestive aid. It is also said to have anti-depressant qualities and may also stimulate the immune system.
CILANTRO (Chinese Parsley, fresh green coriander, yuen sai, daun ketumbar, pak chee, ngo)
Cilantro is a flexible herb that spices up many different cuisines. Chinese, Thai, and Indonesian cuisines are well known for their use of both cilantro and its seed, coriander. Chopped, the leaves, as well as the more pungent roots, add zest to most Thai curries, and the ground seeds give further depth to the flavors. Indian curry powders owe much of their aromatic, citrus quality to ground coriander. The Chinese, quite accurately, call cilantro "fragrant greens," adding it to stir fries and sauces to enliven them and add a fresh, pungent taste. The whole plant, roots and all, is often boiled and eaten as a vegetable. At first glance, cilantro looks similar to Italian parsley. But its leaves and stems are more delicate and the distinctive aroma is a dead giveaway.
Recipe Suggestion:
Tofu with Cilantro and Hot Peppers
1 hot pepper such as Paper Dragon or Hot Thai
1/2 sweet red pepper
1 teaspoon corn starch
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound tofu, cut into 3/4 inch cubes
1 tablespoon Chinese thin soy sauce
3/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
1. Cut the hot and sweet peppers into very thin strips.
2. Mix the cornstarch with 1/4 cup water.
3. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. When hot, put in the pepper strips and salt. Stir fry for 30 seconds.
4. Add the tofu, stirring gently. Turn heat to low. Add the soy sauce.
5. Stir the cornstarch mixture until smooth and add to the wok. Turn the heat up and cook, stirring gently, until the sauce thickens slightly. Scatter the cilantro over the top. Stir once or twice and serve.
Selection Tips
Because cilantro is rather delicate, you should take care to buy a bunch that looks fresh and lively, without any damaged leaves as torn or bruised leaves quickly become slimy and unusable. If the bunch contains any brown or yellowed leaves, pull them out before you use it or store it. If you have a choice, buy a bunch with the roots attached, as it will keep longer and the roots are delicious.
Nutritional Highlights
Cilantro has virtually no calories and is a fairly good source of vitamin A.
PERILLA (Shiso)
Perilla is known almost exclusively by the Japanese name shiso (shee-so), even in English-speaking countries. Although shiso is related to basil and mint, it is very much its own herb, with strong, complex, and, some say, medicinal flavors. There are red-leaf (aka-shiso) and green leaf (ao-shiso) varieties, with no perceivable taste difference. The red leaf shiso is used as the coloring agent for umeboshi , Japanese pickled plums.
Although shiso was used thousands of years ago in Chinese cooking, it is now used almost exclusively in Japanese cooking and in nouvelle California cuisines. I recently saw a recipe for Green Tea and Shiso Granita with Fresh Cherries! In Vietnam, shiso is sometimes used in salads or as a wrapping for grilled meats. In Japan, it is most often used in sushi and tempura. You can feel free to experiment and use it in mixed salads or as a garnish for soups or stir fries. It is especially good in dipping sauces for cold noodles.
Recipe Suggestion:
Shiso Leaf Tempura
1 large egg
1 cup ice-cold water
1 cup flour
10-12 shiso leaves, plus green beans, carrots, onions, okra and anything else you may want to batter and fry
vegetable oil for deep-frying
1. Wash the shiso leaves and pat dry.
2. Put the egg in a bowl and whisk gently. Slowly add the ice water, beating constantly. Put in the flour all at once. Beat four or five times, being careful not to overmix—the batter should be lumpy.
3. Set the batter aside for 10 minutes as you heat the oil for deep frying. You may use a wok or deep skillet, or electric deep frying pot. Heat the oil over medium heat until between 350 and 375.
4. When the oil is hot, dip the shiso leaves in the batter and deep fry, turning once or twice, for 1-2 minutes.
5. Remove from the oil and drain on a wire mesh rack or on paper towels.
6. Serve as soon as possible with a tempura dipping sauce.
Selection Tips
Shiso leaves should be fresh, not wilted, limp or dry. They should also have a very recognizable aroma.
Nutritional Highlights
Most western sources do not list the nutritional content of shiso, but traditionally the leaf was used to treat flu, coughs and nausea. A Japanese source lists it as high in vitamins A, B2, and E, with significant amounts of calcium and iron as well.
Terra Brockman is a writer, editor, publisher, and nonprofit organizer who
lives in central Illinois. She first encountered a genuine Asian cuisine
when she lived in Japan from 1985-1990. She expanded her culinary horizons
in New York City from 1990-1998. Since then she has been a freelance writer
and editor, while working on her brother's organic farm where many Asian
vegetables are grown.
