Fresh produce from unpolluted waters and rolling green hills is the proud boast of the 'Land of the Long White Cloud'. Justly famous for its tender, sweet Canterbury lamb which is exported far and wide; kiwi fruit; farmed cervena (venison); whitebait; Tasman salmon; ocean trout; green lip mussels; and recently, from the South Island, black truffles.

There are also delights available only to those who seek them locally, and scarce even then. Lake trout which is never sold in a fish shop, but brings game fishermen from all over the world to obtain a licence to fish in the cold, clear streams and lakes during the season; toheroas (shellfish) may only be dug at the water's edge for a two-week period each year; bluff oysters for a short season of 6-8 weeks; tui-tui, clams, pippies and sea urchins; the delights and denials of seasonal availability are alive and well in these islands.

Probably the best known New Zealand dish is the disputed dessert Pavlova, named for the famous ballerina. Both Australia and New Zealand lay claim to it. Agreement will probably never be reached on who invented it, but it is agreed by those who have lived in both countries that there are essential differences. The Australian pavlova has more of the soft, marshmallowy centre; the New Zealand version has more of the crisp crust, being rather flatter. Both are topped with whipped cream. While the Australian version usually has a topping of passionfruit pulp, sliced strawberries, sliced bananas and peeled, sliced kiwi fruit, the New Zealand version is more austere, with only whipped cream and passionfruit pulp, and perhaps some kiwifruit slices. Controversy reigns! Under PASSIONFRUIT which is the predominant flavour, I have included a recipe you can adapt to either school of thought, and attribute to whichever country you wish.