Sri Lanka is known as the Emerald Isle for its lush green rainforests and gorgeous beaches. As an important stopover for trading ships plying the old spice routes, Sri Lanka became a mingling place for people of many cultures. This history along with several periods of colonization have combined to create an exotic cuisine blending indigenous ingredients and cooking techniques with influences from Indian, Portuguese, Dutch, Malay and a host of other world food traditions.
The staple food of Sri Lanka is rice, which is boiled or steamed and served with a variety of curries. A typical Sri Lankan meal would consist of a main curry of fish, beef, chicken or mutton, accompanied by several other curries made with vegetables or lentils. Side dishes often include pickles, chutneys and "sambols"- a spicy condiment made of ground coconut or onions mixed with chilli, dried fish and lime juice. These ingredients are ground to a paste and served on the side, adding a kick to the meal and a boost to the appetite.
Curries in Sri Lanka are classified by color, white curries are milder with a more subtle flavor, black curries are made with spices that have been dark-roasted to create a deep, rich flavor, and red curries are made with plenty of chillies and therefore fiery hot! Other distinctively Sri Lankan foods include Hoppers- bowl-shaped rice pancakes commonly eaten for breakfast and lunch, and Lamprais- a dish of Indonesian/Dutch origin comprising of rice cooked in a meat stock and slowly baked in a banana leaf with a variety of meat and vegetable sides.
In New York Sri Lankan food is difficult, but not impossible to find. Sadly, Lakruwana has recently closed its doors, leaving Taprobane as the only place we know of in Manhattan serving Sri Lankan specialties. Nevertheless, Taprobane is an excellent place to sample some Sri Lankan favorites and to begin your exploration of this little-known cuisine.
For even more exposure, you can jump on the ferry for the short ride to Staten Island, and visit the small cluster of restaurants and grocery stores on Victory Boulevard serving the island's thriving community of five hundred or so Sri Lankan families. The New Sunshine restaurant has recently opened there in the space that was formerly Lakruwana's Staten Island branch. Owner Dilani Abeywardana promises to keep new visitors more than satisfied with her own renditions of popular Sri Lankan favorites. Not far away is the New Asha. Cheap and delicious, New Asha has more limited seating and is geared primarily for take-out. Unfortunately Lakshmi's, which used to be next door, is another Sri Lankan spot to have recently closed for business.
It's always sad to see good restaurants close, but with any luck, more new ones will open to replace those we have lost, and there will always be opportunities to enjoy Sri Lankan fare here in New York City. Meanwhile, don't delay! There's plenty to try in the world of Sri Lankan cuisine, so get out there and get started!
Taprobane
234 W 56th St
New York
(212) 333-4203
*15% discount for Asia Society members!
New Sunshine
3 Corson Ave
(@ Victory Blvd)
Staten Island
New York
(718) 876-9870
New Asha
322 Victory Blvd
Staten Island
New York
(718) 420-0649
Hema Grocery (near New Sunshine)
53 Victory Blvd.
Staten Island
New York
(718) 876-0562
Santoash Enterprises (near New Asha)
320 Victory Blvd.
Staten Island
New York
(718) 816-1096
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