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White Teas

Tea Tip from In Pursuit of Tea:

In our exploration of the world of tea, we found it difficult to obtain a consistent definition for White tea. White teas often look like Green teas, but there is a difference. What is clear is that White teas are the least processed of all teas. According to David Lee Hoffman, whom we consider to be the American authority on Chinese teas, White teas are not rolled prior to firing or steaming. After the leaves are dried, White teas are immediately fired. Rolling is the process by which the cellular structure of the picked leaves is slightly broken to release essential oils and promote oxidation. Green teas are picked, solar dried, rolled and then fired to stop further oxidation. White teas have the least amount of caffeine of all teas, generally ranging in the cup from 5-15 milligrams.

White teas are mostly grown in Fujian Province China – and we have yet to come across any White tea that is not from China (except for some experiments in India). Other provinces that produce White teas are: Hunan and Guangxi, both in south central China. With flavors that are close to the heart of the tea plant, White teas were the Favorite of Emperor Hui Tsung. He was the famous Tea Emperor in the 1100's who was so preoccupied with his love of tea, and his pursuit of the perfect cup, that he lost his empire to invading Mongols.

White teas are often picked when the buds are tightly enclosed in new leaves. These leaves maintain the silky white hairs that denote new growth. Since they have such little processing these hairs are often intact in the final product. Many believe that the more downy the leaves, the better quality and more delicate tea. White teas are the closest to the fresh taste of pure tea leaves. The tastes can range significantly – based on the varietal of tea plant used to grow the leaves. Some teas like White Peony (Bai Mudan) have a light amber color (similar to an Oolong!) and a sweet flavor. Delicious hot, it also makes a surprisingly refreshing and hearty iced tea.

Robert Fortune, the eccentric explorer who stole tea secrets and enabled the British to begin growing tea in India, spent several months at the Drum Mountain Monastery in the 1840's. Drum Mountain White Cloud from this region is a delicious and refreshing tea. The cup is light green and the flavor is buttery and nutty.

Yinzhen Silver Needles are perhaps the best example of the tight leaves enclosing buds. This is the style of White Tea that is most famous in the US, and is well worth that reputation. Yinzhen Silver Needles has a marvelous cup aroma of nuts; the taste is round and richly vegetative. This year we have also begun to drink Silver Needles' cousin – Green Silver Needles, technically a Green tea made from a White tea varietal of Camellia sinensis. This Green tea mirrors much of a White tea's simplicity, its artichokey flavor is followed by a slight bite.  

How To Brew White Teas:

White Tea is best brewed with warm water – ranging from 150-170 degrees. Carefully remove the top to your kettle and when tiny bubbles are forming on the heating element or rise from the bottom – that's the temperature. Generally these teas are extremely light weight and you have to be sure to add enough leaf to the cup or pot. Then the tea needs a good long steep, over 6 minutes for the first one. Adding a minute or two to each subsequent steep these teas will go for at least 3 steeps. This extended time is necessary to allow the leaves enclosing the bud to open up and release their flavor to the cup.

White teas are perfect to enjoy in the evening after a light dinner. Avoid drinking them after eating spiced foods, as much of the delicacy of their taste will be lost. They are also an alternative for people who want to drink Green tea for their health benefits, but find the taste of some Greens too strong for their palates.

For more information on drinks and beverages, read Charmaine Solomon's article on well-known drinks you may encounter in Asian travels or upon inspection of the refrigerator section of your local Asian grocer.